Installation of an additional pump in a scorpion. Do-it-yourself installation of an additional pump in a car

11.10.2021

If the owners of country houses have problems with heating their homes, then installing an additional pump in the heating system will help solve the problem.

This is a universal device that works on all types of fuel and helps heat spread equally through all pipes.

Eliminate all heating deficiencies with the installation of an additional pump

Main advantages

Owners of private houses will receive many benefits if they install an additional pump in their heating system. The main advantages of the device:

The overall efficiency index increases several times.
Air in living rooms warms up twice as fast.
The heat in the main pipeline circulates better.
The pump creates pressure due to which air does not accumulate in the channels.
Consumes little fuel, so it is considered economical.
You can install towel dryers and thermostats.
Instead of large pipes, small diameter pipes can be installed.
Low price.

In this video, we will learn how to install an additional pump:

Equipment parameters

Before buying and installing a circulation pump, you need to familiarize yourself with its technical characteristics.

This includes: the pressure force with which it works, the density level of the coolant, the water temperature and the diameter of the pipes located in the house.

Everything specifications indicated on the packaging of the pump and in its passport. Legend:

The letter "H" shows how high the pump is able to lift the water. This indicator is measured in meters.
The letter "Q" means how much liquid the heating system can consume. The indicator is equal to the power of the boiler and is measured in cubic meters. Its value varies depending on the diameter of the laid pipes. When buying a device, special attention is paid to this indicator, since the main task of the pump is to work to improve circulation inside, and not to raise the liquid.

The calculation of the consumed liquid is done independently if the boiler is not equipped with a pump.

If an old boiler model is installed in the house and additional extensions were made to it, then 2 pumps must be installed. The equipment has an increased noise level, and its full capabilities are not always used, so you should not buy too expensive equipment.

How much power the device should have depends on the length of the pipe. A pipe of 10 meters requires a pressure level of 0.5 meters. For example, if the pressure power is about 5 meters, then the work of the 100-meter ring will be of high quality. Therefore, when calculating, it must be taken into account that the power of the device should be 10% more than the received figures.

Types of additional pumps

There are two types of additional pumps that allow the carrier to circulate efficiently - these are "wet" and "dry" models:

Wet. A rotor is installed inside the coolant, pumping water. The engine is cooled by fluid circulation. Electricity flows through the stator. These pumps have compact dimensions and long service life, low noise. They do not require frequent maintenance. The average level of efficiency is one of the disadvantages, which leads to a limitation in use. For example, they cannot be used for drinking water. The equipment is suitable for installation in high-rise buildings and mansions.
Dry. In these models, the rotor is located outside the coolant. To separate the motor from the pump, the device is equipped with a seal. The equipment is capable of regularly pumping a large volume of water, so it is more often installed in shopping centers and in production. It is rarely used in residential buildings. The efficiency is about 75%.

Preparation for installation and installation

To install the pump, a filter for deep water purification, a check valve that stabilizes the entire system, and a split-type thread are required. Of the tools you will need:

fittings;
pipe;
pliers and a set of keys;
flathead screwdrivers (small and large).

Modern models can be installed on a pipe supplying water or on a return pipe. When installing equipment in the area between the direct and return wiring, it is checked whether the pump can withstand the pressure hot water or not.

If it is planned to install underfloor heating in the room, then the equipment is placed in the place where hot water is supplied. So air will not accumulate in the pipes.

The pump is installed on the return pipe if the heating system has membrane tank. Installation process:

Installation of equipment is done not according to the type of construction and material, but according to the bypass method. If necessary, purchase an additional design. Sometimes this is necessary if a metal pipeline is laid in the house. You can bypass the highway using this design.
First, all the water is drained from the pipes, then they are thoroughly cleaned.
A metal piece of pipe is bent with the letter "P" and mounted from the side of the main pipe.
The pump is mounted in the center of the pipe. Ball valves are mounted on both sides of it. Closing one of them will balance the circulation of water. In addition, you do not have to drain it if a breakdown occurs.

Do not forget to drain the water from the pipes before starting installation work.

A drawn arrow on the body of the equipment shows in which direction the liquid should move. During installation, be sure to observe the correct direction.
After installation, the system is checked for operability by first filling the pipes with water. All problems are fixed immediately.
The air accumulated in the pipes is expelled by the central screw. Water should come out of the hole in the pipeline.
Air is removed from the pipes before installation if the equipment has manual control. The pump is started for 3 minutes, then its valves will slightly open. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times until the pipeline is filled with water. At this point, it will start on its own.

Connection technology

In order for the heating to be of high quality, it is necessary to connect the pump correctly. An automatic fuse will help connect the equipment of natural circulation systems to the mains. It is installed near the boiler. A gap of 70 cm is left between the fuse and the boiler.

If the system has forced circulation, then the pump is turned on using a thermal relay. In order for the built-in and additional device to work together, the additional one is connected to the relay.

Sometimes it is brought to the embedded device in a parallel direction.

The pump is connected directly to the boiler if it is an electric model. Its inclusion will occur only after the liquid warms up. The cleaning filter is mounted in front of the device body. A valve is screwed at the top of the bypass. The air accumulated inside the pipeline will be removed through it by blowing.

Not so long ago, when the acquisition of high-quality pumping equipment for an autonomous heating system of a private house was a huge problem, preference was universally given to schemes with natural circulation coolant. However, despite the seeming simplicity of this approach, such systems are not highly efficient and economical. In addition, the possibilities for precise temperature control in individual rooms of the house are significantly narrowed, and with many modern heat exchange devices and systems, this type of organization of coolant transfer is not possible at all.

Yes, and the declared ease of installation of a circuit with natural circulation is also very conditional, since obligatory observance of the slope, a strictly specified arrangement of devices, and the pipes themselves must be of increased diameter. Sometimes, in the conditions of a particular building, compliance with all existing mandatory conditions for ensuring normal circulation becomes a difficult or even impossible task. All of these problems will help to solve the installation of the pump in the heating system of a private house.

It is this block of questions that will be considered in this publication. It can be divided into several main subsections:

What is a circulation pump for, and what are the advantages of installing it?
How is the circulation pump for the heating system arranged?
How to choose the optimal model?
Where is the best place to install?
How to independently carry out installation work?

Prices for circulation pumps for heating

circulation pumps

Advantages of a heating system with forced circulation of the coolant.

Ardent supporters of heating systems with natural circulation of the coolant give a number of seemingly irrefutable arguments in favor of just such a scheme.

The pump is an extra cost for the purchase and installation.
Any electrical equipment becomes an additional consumer of expensive electricity.
The dependence of pumping equipment on the stability of the power supply makes the heating system extremely vulnerable in emergency situations in the power grid.
The pump is an additional component of the system, vulnerable to mechanical breakdowns.

It would seem, at first glance, that everything is fair. But if you look at it unbiasedly, on each point, then the picture changes literally to the exact opposite.

Let's look at the scheme of the heating system with natural circulation:

Is such a scheme so easy to install and cheap? Not at all!

From the boiler (pos. 1) it is imperative to mount an accelerating vertical section (pos. 2), from a large diameter pipe - preferably 1½ inches or even more. At the same time, it must reach the highest possible point - above any heat exchange devices. In the same place, at the maximum height, you will have to install and expansion tank open type (pos. 3).

The supply manifold (pos. 4) must be located with a mandatory slope of at least 5% (5 cm per linear meter of the circuit). In this case, again, the diameter of the pipe should not be less than 1¼ inches.

Vertical risers (pos. 5), through which the coolant is supplied directly to the heating radiators (pos. 6), are made of pipes with a diameter of at least ¾ inch.

Finally, the requirements for the diameter and observance of the slope of the "return" collector (pos. 7) are the same as in the supply pipe. It turns out that in any case, the boiler should be below the lowest-lying radiators.

In a small building, with compactly located rooms, such an approach is still feasible, and even then - not always. Large diameter pipes, not only are they much more expensive, but are more difficult to install. They are extremely difficult, often - and it is completely impossible to hide so that they do not spoil the interior. The possibility of a hidden lower connection of radiators is almost completely excluded. The cost of the pump itself and its installation (which can be done independently) are simply incomparable with the costs listed above.

Even with the most thoughtful, optimal placement of all elements of a circuit with natural circulation, it is hardly realistic to create excess pressure in it only due to temperature changes and a difference in density above 0.6 atmospheres. And such pressure will be clearly not enough for many modern heating devices. Moreover, you don’t even have to hatch plans to create a water floor heating system.

Moreover, even a slight blockage, somewhere on pipe bends or in another area vulnerable to this phenomenon, can completely paralyze the movement of the coolant through the pipes. And this will be all the more likely if the system is sufficiently branched, since hydraulic resistance will also have its say.

In order for a system with natural circulation to reach its design capacity, a powerful starting energy “impulse” is required. These are extra costs of energy carriers, and quite considerable ones at that. Well, even a short-term stop of the boiler for one reason or another will require both certain efforts and considerable time to bring the heating system back to normal operation. The low speed of the coolant and the expenditure of part of the energy generated by the boiler only for its movement is a general decrease in the efficiency of the entire system. And, believe that these extra energy costs will certainly exceed the total consumption of a compact circulation pump operating under constant load.

A low circulation rate is also a clearly uneven heating of heat exchange devices installed in such a circuit and spaced apart in the rooms. Adjusting the level of heat transfer of radiators installed in the premises of the house becomes possible solely on a quantitative basis, that is, by changing the volume of liquid passing through the devices. This method is not accurate, and under conditions of low pressure in the pipes, it can even lead to blocking of one or another radiator or section of the circuit. Talking about high-quality adjustment in such conditions, that is, with the admixture of coolant from the return, is generally naive.

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The result is the same - the inefficiency of the system directly negatively affects the efficiency of energy consumption, that is, it leads to unnecessary costs during the entire period of heating operation. It is more profitable to spend money on the pump once already ...

Finally, a few words about the vulnerability of pumping equipment from the presence of power.

This is true, but in exactly the same way all electrical appliances in the house are dependent. Including - and the majority of modern heating boilers equipped with automation. The problem is solvable - it is enough to install an uninterruptible power supply for the boiler equipment.

With low pump power consumption, not even the most expensive and powerful UPS is able to keep the equipment running for several hours. This is quite enough.

And finally, nothing prevents you from mounting the pump so that in emergency cases it was possible to switch to natural circulation in the system. This is usually what they do - the pump piping circuit includes a bypass (jumper) and several valves (an automatic valve can also be used).

Well, about the fact that the pump becomes another vulnerable link in the system. You can reassure the reader: statistics show that the failure of circulation pumps refers more to casuistic situations, they are so rare. The designs of devices from leading manufacturers are distinguished by excellent reliability and can serve for decades, unless, of course, the operating rules are violated. And the resulting benefit in the form of cost-effective operation of the system justifies the purchase of even an expensive pump in two to three years. So from this side, “expect a dirty trick” is the least of all.

We hope that the reader is convinced of the need to install a circulation pump. So, it's time to consider how to choose the right one.

How to choose the best circulation pump

Two main types of circulation pumps

Circulation pumps are devices powered by electricity. But direct contact of the electrical part with the hydraulic part is unacceptable. This division is provided by two approaches to the arrangement of devices, which predetermines their subdivision into “dry” and “wet” type devices. Much becomes clear from the title.

Pumps with a "dry rotor" appeared before their counterparts. Their principal scheme is such that the electric drive is completely isolated from the pump part, and the rotation is transmitted to the impeller through the shaft. Even outwardly, such pumps can be distinguished by an elongated housing, due to the remote motor block. As a rule, such devices are quite massive, so their console installation is most often practiced - for this, brackets or mounting pads are provided on the case.

"Dry" type circulation pumps are powerful and productive devices that provide both a very large flow rate of the coolant passing through them and high pressure indicators in the system. It's hard to do without them. If a powerful boiler house is being designed, for example, for a large mansion with several floors. But in the conditions of an apartment or a private house of medium size, their use is already seen as redundant, especially since they have certain disadvantages.

- About the difficulties associated with the overall dimensions, massiveness and features of the installation - it has already been mentioned.

— The rotation-transmitting shaft has a complex system of seals that prevent leakage of pressurized fluid. These seals gradually wear out, which predetermines the need for regular preventive work including replacements with new ones.

- The operation of such pumps is always accompanied by a noise effect - due to the need for air cooling of the electric drive. This also imposes its own restrictions on the choice of the installation location of the device.

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In a word, if the heating system does not require specifically high pressure and coolant flow rates, the best option would still be to purchase a wet rotor pump.

Pumps with a "wet rotor" are arranged differently. The circuit diagram is shown in the illustration below:

The body of the power block (pos. 1) is hermetically connected to the body of the pumping chamber (pos. 2) with the help of several screws (pos. 3) due to ring gaskets. On both sides of the working chamber - "snail" there are certain fasteners for tapping into pipes - these can be threaded pipes (pos. 4) for a coupling connection or flanges.

Inside the power unit there is a stator winding (pos. 5) - this is the only compartment that does not come into contact with the liquid medium - it is hermetically separated from all the others by a stainless steel "glass" (pos. 6). Thus, the seals stand exclusively on static parts, that is, they do not wear out from friction.

Inside there is a rotor (pos. 7), on the shaft of which the pump impeller (pos. 8) is rigidly put on. The rotor rests on bearings that receive constant lubrication from the coolant. The liquid medium that fills the entire internal space of the pump is also an excellent heat remover, and the device is not in danger of overheating, and an additional engine cooling system is not required. In order to ensure complete filling of the entire volume of the pump with coolant, a special plug (pos. 9) is provided for air release.

The rotation of the pump rotor in a liquid medium, of course, entails certain energy losses, that is, a decrease in the efficiency of the device. But against the background of low electricity consumption - this factor does not seem worthy of special attention - due to the insignificance of losses.

The operation of the pump is almost silent, the device is compact and easy to install - the op simply crashes into the desired section of the pipe, without requiring any additional fasteners. True, in this case, an important condition must be observed - the rotor axis, regardless of the position of the housing, must take a horizontal position. In this position, the bearings will never be dry, and failure due to overheating does not threaten them.

Another detail is that solid suspensions should not be allowed to enter the bearings, which may well form in the circuits of the system. Therefore, immediately before the pump, it is always recommended to install a mechanical filter - "mud".

You may be interested in information about how reliable it is for heating systems

Criteria for evaluating the circulation pump when choosing

When choosing a circulation pump for installation in an existing heating system, a number of criteria must be taken into account.

Supply voltage. On the scale of autonomous heating systems for apartments and private houses, pumps with single-phase power supply 220 V 50 Hz are used. Low current consumption eliminates the need to lay any dedicated power lines - there are enough power outlets. The only thing that is desirable to provide is an uninterruptible power supply, which was mentioned above.
Power consumption. Naturally, the lower it is (while maintaining other performance characteristics), the more economical the device. The best choice would be a device of energy class "A", even if it costs more. The lower the class (“B”, “C”, and so on), the greater the energy consumption.

Most modern pumps have the ability to select one of two or three operating modes, with different indicators of the generated pressure. In accordance with this, the power consumption also changes. Usually, the indicators are placed on the nameplate of the device, in the form of a plate.

Since we touched upon the issues of purely operational characteristics that affect the operation of the heating system - productivity and the pressure created, it makes sense to consider these indicators in more detail.

There are tables by which you can approximately determine the necessary parameters - one of them is located below.

Total floor space	Required thermal power(kW) at the temperature difference of the coolant in the supply and return pipes (Δt)			Pump parameters, min (excluding the hydraulic resistance of the circuits and their branching)
	Δt= 20 °C	Δt= 15 °С	Δt= 10 °С	Productivity (m³/hour)	Head (m water column)
up to 200	28,0	21,0	14,0	1,25	1,0
350	46,0	35,0	23,0	2,0	2,0
500	70,0	52,0	35,0	3,0	2,0
900	116,0	87,0	58,0	5,0	3,0
1100	140,0	105,0	70,0	7,0	3,0
Δt= 20 °С - optimal mode for heating radiators
Δt= 15 °С - optimal mode for heating convectors
Δt= 10 °С - optimal mode for "warm floor" circuits

However, it is far from always possible to rely on such tabular values, since they are usually calculated for "ideal" operating conditions, and do not take into account many factors. It will not be difficult to determine the desired values \u200b\u200band yourself.

pump performance. The main task of this device is to move a certain amount of coolant along the circuit, that is, ultimately, the necessary amount of thermal energy sufficient for the efficient operation of heat exchange devices (radiators, converters, “warm floor” circuits).

The following values are required for the calculation:

W- the required thermal power (expressed in watts) of the heating system, providing a comfortable temperature in the premises under the most adverse weather conditions.

The power value of the owners should be known. If not, then it can also be calculated for each room separately, and then summed up.

How to independently calculate the required heat output of the heating system?

There is a clear and fairly accurate algorithm for such calculations. On our portal, it is implemented in a special calculator, which you will find in the article

Δ t- temperature difference in the "supply" and "return" pipes of the heating circuit at the entrance to the boiler and the exit from it. The optimal values for different types of heat exchangers are shown in the table above.

FROM- heat capacity of the coolant, expressed in W × h / (kg × °С). For water, it is 1.16. If a different coolant is used, then this parameter should be indicated on its packaging. It happens. That this value is shown by the manufacturer in other units - in kJ / (kg × ° С). It is easy to translate - the correction factor is 0.28. That is, 1 kJ = 0.28 Wh.

Formula for calculating the required performance ( G) is as follows:

G=W/(∆t × C)

This formula yields a performance indicator expressed in kilograms per hour. It remains only to translate this value into a volumetric expression, taking into account the density.

We suggest using the pump performance calculator - it will quickly and accurately lead to the desired result.

So the cold weather has come and the owner of the VAZ 2109, who lives in Russia, will again have to face the problem of the stove. Indeed, either the domestic manufacturer did not initially take care of its normal functioning, or this car should have such a system, but the VAZ 2109 with an electric pump that is installed independently is more suitable in our country in winter.
On the VAZ 2109, installing an electric pump will not take much time and it is enough to know the basic algorithm for the operation, which will be discussed in our article.

It is clear that not a single owner wants to freeze all winter in his car. And passengers are unlikely to want to sit in a kind of "refrigerator", where instead of getting warm, you freeze completely.
The regular stove of this car, of course, warms, but does it reluctantly and as if in debt. It's all about its low efficiency, especially at idle, when you stand, for example, in traffic jams.
Installing an additional electric pump, in this case, solves the problem right away. In fact, there are many ways to make the interior of your “nine”, but finalizing the car by installing an electric pump is the most rational solution.

What can it give

So, let's find out for a start what will give us an additional electric pump in VAZ 2109:

It turns out that installing an additional pump in a car of this model of the VAZ family can significantly increase the efficiency of blowing warm air into the passenger compartment at idle.

Note. In other words, if a regular stove blows hot air only while the car is moving, and only blows warm air at idle, this means poor circulation of fluid in the CO. The modernization of CO, by installing an additional pump, will enable the antifreeze to circulate faster.

Installation of an additional pump, of course, will largely insulate the interior, but the volume of pumped antifreeze will double. This, in turn, will lead to the fact that the engine will cool down more and you need to take care, in addition, to save its heat.
Complete thermal insulation of the car in this case will be what you need, especially since nowadays you can find in stores great amount materials for this.
An additional pump, of course, gives an irreplaceable effect. On the other hand, this creates an additional load on, which will also have to be upgraded.
The fact is that on the "nines" there is a slightly weak current converter.

How to choose an electric pump

It seems that we have figured out what the additional pump gives us.
Now let's find out how to choose it:

The electric pump from the Gazelle is usually the most popular option. She fits perfectly. This element is a conventional centrifugal pump.
The disadvantage of this pump is that it cannot pump air, due to the large gaps between the impeller and the housing.

Note. Gazelle pumps are also different. Old and new pumps are known. As a rule, new electric pumps vibrate less and their use is most rational.

"Advanced", so to speak, motorists are advised to install, as a better option, an electric pump from Bosh.
Such an option as a pump from Elara will also do. The manufacturer has recently significantly improved the element, putting in a new seal that does not leak.
In addition, the section of the fittings was increased, and this gave a double increase in productivity.
A pump from "Advers" will also do.

Which particular pump to choose, the owner decides. The pump options have practically no difference, but you need to choose a pump that does not have leaks.
In addition, by choosing a high-quality pump, the likelihood of its breakdown or poor performance will be reduced to zero.

Installing an additional pump on the VAZ 2109

In this article, we will learn how to install an additional pump on a car, like a real auto electrician. VAZ 2109 is a car that makes it possible to constantly upgrade and improve something, however, like all models of this family.
Let's present two algorithms for the reader to see how to mount a pump from Gazelle and from Bosh.

Installing a pump from a Gazelle

As mentioned above, this is the most common option for mounting an additional pump.
Tools and materials:

The pump from the Gazelle is standard. It costs about 1000 Russian rubles.
Relay with normally open contacts. Standard relays from the starter or ignition will do, where you just need to bridge the necessary contacts.
Some reinforced hose.
2 liters of coolant (regular antifreeze).
Clamps of medium size in the amount of 5 pieces.

Let's get started:

We are waiting for the system to cool down. Antifreeze is drained from the tank into some clean container if its reuse is intended.
If you intend to use a new antifreeze, then you can also drain it for recycling.
On top of the pump we see 4 self-tapping screws. They will need to be unscrewed to get to the rubber impeller gasket. We lubricate this same gasket with a hermetic compound.
We assemble the pump, but instead of standard self-tapping screws we put long thin bolts, on the advice of an auto electrician. Vaz 2109, by the way, is a car where the pump from the Gazelle is quite successfully installed.

Advice. Some motorists who install an electric pump for the first time are wondering: where is it better to install the pump, into the break of the heater supply pipe or the outlet pipe? In fact, there is no difference in this, as long as the pump is installed downstream of the coolant flow.

We fix the electric pump.

Note. You can also mount an additional pump on the VAZ 2109 directly on the washer reservoir stud or on the stud near the battery.
In addition, some craftsmen advise putting it on the mount of the factory noise, which, as you know, is located on the engine shield. It is most rational to put it near the battery, which we will do.

We unclench the iron clamp.
We install the pump with a horizontal pipe towards the block.

Now you should think about how to establish a connection. It is most practical to transfer the connection to the recirculation button. If not, then you can put it on the SAUO unit or on mirror heating.

Two wires are disconnected from the recirculation valve: with a white-blue and yellow-blue stripe.

Note. Recall that the recirculation valve is located on the engine compartment shield, and two thin hoses go to it.

We connect the white-blue wire to one terminal of the relay.
Yellow-blue to the second terminal of the relay.
We connect the third terminal of the relay to the wire of the electric pump.

Now it's time to check how the pump works. When you press the button, the pump should begin to buzz and blow air. If this does not happen, then something is done wrong.
We continue the installation:

Disconnect hose 1, through which coolant flows to the heater from the outlet pipe.
We connect it to the horizontal pipe of the pump (the length is enough to the full extent, if that).
Now you need to connect hose 2 to the vertical pipe of the pump, which itself consists of 2 S-shaped pipes (it is located between the tap and). In extreme cases, another hose of a suitable size and type can be used instead.
The other end of this hose must be pulled to the head of the block, from where hose 1 was removed.
We tighten the clamps.
Be sure to twist drain plug in the block.

We continue the process:

Fill coolant to the maximum mark.
We spin the engine.
Visually inspect the pumps for leaks.
Then we turn on the ignition again and check for leaks, which, if found, are eliminated.
We tighten the clamps.
Let the engine run for about 30 minutes.
Re-fill the coolant to the desired level.

Checking the new pump

It is desirable to check in the air when the temperature is about -10 degrees Celsius:

Engine temperature should be +85.
We turn off the engine.
We turn on the heater at the first speed and observe how semi-warm air blows.
We turn on the additional pump and immediately the difference is blowing hot air! Hot air goes until the temperature of the motor cools down to +45 degrees.
We start the engine again, heat it up to the desired temperature and check everything again.
If everything repeats, then the pump is functioning normally.

Bosh pump installation

Again, we will prepare the necessary materials for this.
Materials that will be needed:

Pump from Bosh, which costs about 1300 rubles.
Relay with a chip.
Two wires of 5 meters of different colors.
20 different terminals.
Button with LED, commonly used on foreign cars.
Special connector for the pump.

Installation algorithm:

First of all, we lay the electrical wires.
It is desirable to install the relay behind the car radio.
From the relay we lay a wire for 12V to the pump.
The other wire goes to the button with the LED.
Don't forget to connect ground to the button.
Plus appears from the radio when the ignition is turned on.
As a result, when the car is running, after pressing the button, the LED lights up and the additional pump starts to function.
Now we install the pump itself.

Note. A common problem when installing an additional pump is threading the factory hose onto the pump. We note right away that it is easier to go and buy a new one than to try to pull on a regular one.

We put in a new hose for the stove 18 mm.
We place the pump and glue it with double-sided tape, and then fix it well with a clamp.
We bring the wire from + 12V to the engine compartment to the ECU.
We connect and everything is ready.

Installation costs are minimal. About 2,000 rubles, if it goes away, it's still a lot.
Refinement of the regular system will give only positive results. The instructions above will tell you how to do everything with minimal loss of time and money.
Videos and photos will help in the process to gain practical understanding, so we do not ignore them. The price of installing an additional electric pump will not affect the family budget in any way if you do everything yourself.

Owners of private houses often face some problems regarding the heating of their homes. Installing an additional pump in the heating system will help solve issues with uneven distribution of heat in the pipeline.

This device is mounted on heating structures that operate on the most various types fuels (coal, fuel oil, diesel fuel, gas, electricity, firewood).

Advantages

Using a pump of this type has many advantages:

increase in system efficiency;
rapid heating of the air in the rooms and an increase in the heated area;
alignment of temperature indicators in the pipeline;
exclusion of air in pipes;
reduced fuel consumption;
the possibility of installing heated towel rails, thermostats;
the use of pipes of small diameter;
democratic cost of equipment.

- this is an opportunity to quickly improve the quality of heating a house without dismantling the entire system and large financial expenses.

Parameters

The installation of this equipment requires taking into account its parameters, pipe diameter, pressure force and water temperature, heat carrier density.

H - designation of pressure, the ability of the device to raise the liquid to a certain level. The parameter is measured in meters.
Q - fluid flow in the heating system for a certain period of time, calculated in m3.
This value is equal to the boiler power parameter. The flow rate of the coolant depends on the diameter of the pipes.

The circulation equipment is not designed to lift water, therefore, when purchasing it, you need to pay attention to parameter Q. If the boiler is not equipped with a pump, then the fluid flow must be calculated. In modern heating appliances already built a similar unit.

Additional pumping equipment is installed if the boiler is of an old modification, the heating design has been increased due to the expansion of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house.

It makes no sense to buy a high-capacity unit: they will not use it in full force anyway. In addition, such a device is too noisy. The length of the pipeline determines the power of the injection equipment: for every 10 m of the pipeline, 0.6 m of pressure is required from it. A ring with a length of 100 m will work efficiently and productively with a pump head of 6 m.

When buying pumping equipment, you need to remember that its power should be 10% more than the value that was calculated.

Types of pumps

In order for the energy carrier to circulate productively, dry and wet pumps are used.

Dry

In equipment of the first type, the contact of the rotor with the coolant is not provided. The seal used in such a device hermetically separates the pump itself from the motor. The efficiency of this equipment is 80%, so it is advisable to use it with constant pumping of a large amount of liquid.

The scope of dry pumps is shopping centers, factories, plants. In private houses, such structures are not used due to the high level of noise generation.

Wet

The rotor of wet pumps is located in the coolant, which they are pumping. Water cools the engine. The stator included in the design serves for the approach of electricity. Pumps with a "wet" rotor have a lot of advantages: long service life, rare Maintenance, low noise generation, small size, easy replacement of blocks.

Cons - low efficiency (about 30-50%), limited scope (private houses and city apartments), the inability to use pumps for drinking water and for everything related to food.

Mounting technology

The installation of a circulation unit is a process that requires compliance with a certain sequence of work.

Training

Before installation, a check valve is prepared: this normalizes the operation of the heating system.

You will also need special keys, fittings, a pipe, small in size, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the riser.

A place

Modern circulating pumps can be installed both on the water supply pipe and on the return pipeline.

Mounting to bypass (installed between the forward and return wiring heating radiator jumper, pipe section), requires a preliminary check of the ability of the device to withstand a strong pressure of hot water.

In houses equipped with a "warm floor" system, the pumping device is installed at the point of supply of hot water: this will eliminate the airiness of the pipeline.

If there is a bypass with a pump, they are placed on the return pipeline, closer to the expansion tank.

Installation

The heating system can be made of metal or ecoplastic. There is no difference for the installation of pumping equipment. It is inserted by circling. If the pipeline is made of metal, then you can purchase a ready-made structure for bypassing the main line.

First you need to drain the water, clean heating structure by washing it several times.

Then, according to the scheme, a U-shaped piece of pipe is mounted on the side of the main pipe, in the middle of which a pump is built. Ball valves must be installed on both sides of this unit. What is it for?

Firstly, the natural circulation of the coolant will be restored if one of them is blocked. Secondly, it is possible to repair or replace the circulating equipment if both taps are closed, and there is no need to drain the water from the system.

During installation, you need to pay attention to the direction of water movement (marked with an arrow on the body of the pump unit).

After that, the system is filled with coolant and checked for operability. Any errors should be corrected at this stage.

Then, unwanted air is removed from the pipeline using a central screw. If everything is done correctly, liquid will begin to appear from a special hole.

Pumping equipment with manual control requires air to be removed before starting work: it is turned on for several minutes and the valve is opened, this is repeated several times.

After filling the pipes with water, the pumping device will turn on. The presence of air in the pipeline is excluded.

Connection Features

When connected to the mains in systems with natural circulation, an automatic fuse (with a flag) is used, it can be used to turn off. It must be installed at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the boiler.

The pump device in designs with forced circulation starts to function when the thermal relay is turned on. In order for the additional and built-in units to work simultaneously, the first must also be connected to the relay or to the second in parallel.

In electric boilers, the circulation equipment is connected directly to the boiler, which makes it possible for it to work only at the moment when the water is heated.

The cleaning filter is usually installed in front of the pump.

A special valve (automatic or manual) installed at the top of the bypass will make it possible to remove the air accumulated in the heating system.

Installation of equipment of the "wet" type is carried out horizontally. Its terminals should be located at the top.

All threads of the heating system must have gaskets pre-treated with sealant.
To safely use pumping equipment, you must use a grounded outlet.

Installation of the pumping unit in the heating system requires taking into account all the nuances. Only then will homeowners forget about problems with heat distribution and education air locks in the pipeline.

Installing an additional pump in the heating system is the best way out if there are problems with heating the home. Installing this device can help evenly distribute the coolant in the radiators.

The circulation pump can be installed for heating boilers operating on the most different types fuels - refined oil, coal, gas, diesel fuel, firewood, electricity.

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Main advantages

When deciding whether an additional pump is needed for a wall-mounted boiler or floor heating equipment, it should be noted that installing it provides many advantages. Main advantages:

1. The overall efficiency in the heating system increases. This is reflected both in the uniformity of the distribution of the coolant, and in the temperature regime in all rooms.
2. Indoor air heats up much faster.
3. The circulation of the coolant inside the main line is improved.

If you connect an additional pump to a double-circuit boiler, this will eliminate the formation of an air lock in one of the lines where the coolant circulates. Most often, owners of apartments on the upper floors suffer from this.

important the advantage of the pump is also its efficiency. As practice has shown, at the same time 2 devices (main and additional) consume less electricity.

In addition, if several pumps work in the heating system, it becomes possible to install such useful devices as thermostats and heated towel rails. The owner of the house can also install smaller pipes - the quality of space heating will not suffer from this. Another advantage is the low cost of this device.

An additional pump costs approximately 6-15 thousand rubles. These are not very high costs, given that the unit can collect money from everyone living in the house.

Basic selection options

In order to correctly install the circulation pump in the heating system, a number of basic parameters must be taken into account. The main characteristics during the selection of equipment are:

Taking into account the fact that the pumps are designed not to lift the liquid, but only to circulate the coolant, the main attention when choosing equipment should be focused on the “Q” indicator.

If the house has 2 or more floors, the main condition for raising water to the top is not pressure, but the absence of air in the central line and sufficient circulation, which can ensure the rise of the coolant.

To find out the required flow rate, you can use the following formula Q=N/(t2-t1), where:

Such calculations can only be valid if the boiler does not have a circulation pump. To date boiler equipment, as a rule, is manufactured with a built-in pumping device. During the purchase of a modern boiler, there is usually no need to select an additional pump.

But if the boiler has been located for a long time, and the main heating line needed to be extended due to an additional extension, or the calculations were simply made incorrectly when purchasing a new boiler, then purchasing a second pump is a necessity.

Pump. Delivery or return? Where to put it right. Answers on questions

Specifications

You do not need to choose a very expensive device. One way or another, the devices will not fully use their potential. In addition, the installed equipment is characterized by strong noise. As a rule, the length of the pipeline determines the power indicator of the pumping device: for every 10 m of the pipeline, the pump must create 0.5 m 3 of pressure.

As practice has shown, for a circuit of 100 meters it is enough if the pumping equipment produces a pressure of 5 m 3. When purchasing an additional device for pumping liquid, you must not forget that the pump performance must be 15% more, in contrast to the originally calculated figure.

Equipment types

For normal circulation of the coolant, it is desirable to choose "dry" or "wet" pumps. In the latter case, the rotor is located inside the heat carrier, that is, it pumps the liquid, being located directly in it. During circulation, the water cools the motor. To connect electricity, a stator is required. Wet pumps have a large number of advantages:

Among the minuses, one can note a limited scope, not very high efficiency, it is not possible to use pumps for drinking water and other devices that are associated with food.

In the design of "dry" pumps, the rotor is located outside the heat carrier. This equipment uses a seal designed to separate the electric motor and the pump itself. The approximate efficiency of the device is 80%, so such devices are used in cases where it is necessary to periodically pump a significant amount of water. These devices are used most often in industrial plants and large department stores.

Installing an additional pump.mp4

Preparatory activities

Before proceeding with the installation of the pump, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the stages of work. On the initial stage prepare for installation. Why you need to purchase a coarse filter and detachable threads. Before installing the pump, it is necessary to prepare a check valve that normalizes the operation of the heating system. Installation may also require:

You must first determine the installation location. Modern pumping equipment can be installed not only on the pipeline for supplying the coolant, but also on the return pipe. If it was decided to install the unit on a part of the pipeline between the direct and return pipes, then you need to make sure that the device can withstand a strong pressure of hot water. It should also not be forgotten that in houses where “warm floors” are installed in the premises, the injection device is installed in the hot coolant supply area. In this way, air can be prevented from entering the pipeline.

If an expansion tank is available, then a pump with a bypass is installed in the return pipe section, closer to the expander.

hydraulic separator

If there is a need to install an additional pump, then it is imperative to include another device in this heating system - a hydraulic separator. In construction terminology, a hydraulic separator is also called a hydraulic arrow or anuloid.

This equipment is recommended for use in heating systems where the heat carrier is heated using long-burning boilers. This is simple heating equipment can operate in several modes (fuel ignition, combustion procedure and attenuation process), while each of the phases must comply with its own combustion mode.

The use of a hydraulic switch in the heating system will make it possible to create a certain balance in the heating of the system and heat generation.

The hydraulic separator itself is made in the form of a tube with four outlet nozzles. To the main tasks of this device applies to:

1. Trapping particles of sludge (used as a dirt trap).
2. Automatic removal of accumulated air.

Anuloid is an important device in the heating system, therefore, if there is a pump, it must be installed without fail.

Heating in the house has a large number of functions that must be performed regardless of the flow rate of the heat carrier with possible pressure drops in the main line. It is very difficult to achieve normal operation of the heating system, since water enters the pipe circuits from one heat source- boiler, this ultimately leads to an imbalance in heating. To prevent these situations, a hydraulic arrow is required, which performs the function of a decoupling.

Installation instructions

The installation of an additional pump does not depend in any way on the material and type of the heating system. One way or another, you will need to perform the installation using the bypass method. If there are metal pipes in the building, then it is possible to purchase a finished structure that allows you to bypass the main pipeline. Before installation, it is necessary to completely drain the coolant and clean the pipe, for which the main line must be washed several times. Then a piece of pipe is inserted, which is curved in the shape of the letter "P".

The pump must be fixed in the center of the pipe. Ball valves are installed on both sides of the equipment. Why are they required? To begin with, the circulation of the liquid is normalized if one of the taps is closed. And also in the case of repairing the pump, you do not need to completely drain the water, you can simply close both valves.

During installation, pay attention to the direction in which the coolant moves. The direction is indicated directly on the pump with a special arrow. Upon completion of the installation, the system is filled with liquid and the performance is checked. If any malfunctions are identified, it is necessary to get rid of them at this stage of work.

Then, using the central screw, stagnant air must be expelled from the pipeline. If everything is done correctly, then liquid will flow from the hole in the pipeline. To perform a manual installation of equipment, the air must be bled from the piping prior to installation. Why the pump is turned on for 5 minutes, then the valves of the device open. This procedure must be performed several times. When the main line is filled with a sufficient volume of water, the pump will turn on by itself. Moreover, the presence of air in the pipeline is strictly prohibited.

Connection Features

When connecting the pump to the electrical network in heating systems with natural circulation, it is necessary to use an automatic fuse with a flag, which will be both a switch and a fuse. An automatic fuse must be installed at a distance of at least half a meter from boiler equipment and heating appliances.

To connect the pump to a network with forced circulation, it must be taken into account that one is already located and starts its work if a thermal sensor is triggered. For synchronous operation of two devices, the additional one must also be connected to a thermal sensor or to the main pump using a parallel connection.

In heating systems with an electric boiler, the pump can be connected to the boiler itself, then the circulation system will start working only during the heating of the coolant.

Installing a pump in a heating system is quite a feasible task for any home master. A careful study of all stages of installation will make it possible to make the heating system reliable and efficient. Taking into account all the features during the performance of this work, you can forget about the problem of uneven distribution of the coolant and the appearance of air locks in the system.